Beyond the pistes

Day 1 – Badia This morning, the tranquil village of Badia lies sleepily at the foot of the imposing Sas dla Crusc mountain massif. As I step out of the front door, I’m greeted by a glacier-blue sky. I sit on the bench in front of the house, fasten my snowshoes and slip the loops of the poles over my waterproof gloves. The soft snow beneath my feet brings peace to my thoughts after just a few steps. I take a deep breath of the cool air through my nose, relishing the freshness that cloaks my face like a mask at 1,324 metres above sea level. Today’s route takes me from Badia to the Armentara meadows along the Roda de Armentara trail. This 300-hectare natural biotope, cultivated by farmers for generations, lies just above Badia and the neighbouring village of La Val. The first stretch of my snowshoe hike takes me through a fragrant coniferous forest. Silence accompanies my every step, broken only by the crunch of lightly frozen snow underfoot. As the forest gradually thins, I catch sight of the snow-covered Armentara meadows – a signature of the Alta Badia landscape. The sight is breathtakingly beautiful, even more so in winter. I sit on a rock, pull a thermos of hot tea from my rucksack and gaze at the snow-white plain, dotted only with the scattered brown specks of traditional farm sheds. Towering above it all is my companion for the day: the Sas dla Crusc, the iconic mountain of the Ladin people, crowned by the 2,907-metre Le Ciaval peak. At its base, the pilgrimage Church of the Holy Cross has stood for centuries, nestled beneath the imposing rock face. Before long, I resume my hike. Alpine huts and settlements await me along the way. In the early afternoon, I return to Badia, feeling the joy of this beautiful day in my heart – and a little in my muscles, too. Later, as I settle into the cosy warmth of the Stube beside the wood-burning stove, I think about my next snowshoe hike. Perhaps a trek from San Cassiano to the Störes meadows with views of the Marmolada and Sassongher, or maybe a guided night hike through the forest. We’ll see what else this winter has in store...

Day 2 – San Cassiano The modern Piz Sorega gondola silently carries me from San Cassiano to the high plateau between Corvara, La Villa and San Cassiano, to an altitude of 2,000 metres. The view of the Sas-dla-Crusc massif, with the Lavarela and Conturines peaks on one side and the Gherdenacia plateau, Sassongher and the Sella group on the other, leaves me awestruck. As I step off the gondola with my toboggan in hand, a flutter of excitement runs through me. I can’t wait for the more than three-kilometre descent on the Tru dla liösa Foram – an easy, family-friendly natural toboggan run. Before diving into the fun, I make sure my helmet is snug and my ski goggles are secure. The next 30 minutes are pure tobogganing bliss. I can’t help but let my gaze drift from the toboggan run to the snow-covered Alpine meadows and majestic peaks around me. With a 10-15 per cent gradient, the run gently winds through the peaceful Foram forest. The landscape transforms as I glide along. Once again, I have to focus on navigating the curves. With rosy cheeks and a big grin, I reach the valley and the cable car after a thrilling final sprint, excited for the fun to start all over again.

Day 3 – Lech da Sompunt Smooth as a mirror, the frozen Lake Sompunt stretches out before me against the backdrop of the Sas dla Crusc, nestled in an idyllic winter landscape of snow-dusted spruce and larch forests. As I walk around the small lake, I watch couples and families gliding almost silently across the natural ice rink on their skates. Soon, the sun will disappear behind the mountains, and the skaters will head home. But for me, the evening has just begun. I’m staying for something special. Tonight is Ostí sön dlacia, a unique event where you can watch performances on the ice while sommeliers on skates serve winter drinks and delicacies from local restaurants. And all this beneath the starry skies of Alta Badia. Later, as I lie in bed, I’m grateful that I could hire skates on site. It’s just another reason to head to Lech da Sompunt – or the Corvara ice rink if you’d prefer.

Day 4 – La Val The village of La Val, with its historic rural hamlets (called Viles by the Ladin people of the valley), rests as if frozen in time at 1,300 metres above sea level. Before setting off on today’s winter hike, I greet the Sas dla Crusc and the Neunerspitze peak, which frame the village like a natural amphitheatre. I don’t need snowshoes today; the 80 kilometres of winter hiking trails in Alta Badia are perfect for exploring with sturdy walking shoes. For me, there’s no better way to discover the valley’s villages than on foot, whether on a leisurely hike from Corvara through beautiful larch forests along a rushing stream to La Villa or with views of the Grup dl Sela and the Sassongher to Colfosco. The possibilities are endless. Today, though, I’ve chosen a different hike. My curiosity draws me to the historic Viles of La Val, with their centuries-old architecture and culture. I start my walk at the village church, heading toward Cians. Soon, I reach the small church of St. Barbara, the village’s landmark, and not long after, the bell tower of the old church of La Val. The Ciablun, Runch, Biei and Cians Viles are enchantingly beautiful. After a good hour of walking, I return to the village church as evening slowly falls over the valley.

The Dolomites glow in striking shades of orange, red and pink. It’s time for Inrosadöra, the famous Dolomite glow that enchants both locals and visitors. I humbly watch this natural spectacle as the full moon slowly rises to take its place in the evening sky. But my day isn’t over yet. A guided hike with Gerhard, the local hiking guide, to the Ranch da André mountain hut awaits, where a dinner of traditional Ladin specialities will be served. Bun pro y buna nöt! (Enjoy your meal and good night!)

Day 5 – Sciaré Just three kilometres from San Cassiano is the Zënter de paslunch Alta Badia cross-country skiing centre. I booked a private lesson here with an instructor from the Cross-Country Ski School Alta Badia. I’ve been toying with the idea of improving my rudimentary cross-country skiing skills for a while now. Something about this Nordic sport draws me in – the serenity of gliding along quiet trails through meadows and forests is what I crave most. With 26 kilometres of trails, the Zënter de paslunch makes it easy to learn this new sport. As I work on my technique on the practice slope, I watch experienced skiers zoom along the sunlit trails. All the while, the towering Conturines and Lavarela mountains create a stunning backdrop, with panoramic views of Val Badia constantly in sight. Soon, I’ll be ready to discover the natural beauty around San Cassiano on cross-country skis. The 2.7-kilometre panoramic loop trail at the foot of the Sas Dlacia is the perfect place to start.

Day 6 – La Villa Wrapped in a warm wool blanket, my eyes fixed on the spectacle of stars and the Milky Way above me, I sit in the carriage, hardly able to believe my luck. The rhythmic breathing of the two horses reaches my ears as they pull us at a relaxed trot through the snow-covered winter landscape along the Gader river. As I chat briefly with the coachman, we arrive at the Tru di artisć, an open-air gallery regularly featuring works by Ladin artists. Illuminated sculptures made of wood, metal and other materials line the three-and-a-half-kilometre path. Along the trail, plaques with verses in Ladin are scattered. I’m captivated by the poetic and artistic impressions. After about an hour and a half, I take the carriage back to the village. It couldn’t have been a more perfect way to end such a beautiful day.